Ghosts of Kigali

Kigali is a city of ghosts. Walking through the streets of Rwanda's capital city at night, I can almost reach out and touch the unknown presence that surrounds me. High walls made of rock and brick, some topped by large steel spikes, loom high over the road. The people who walk past cast their eyes downward--when they speak, their voices are soft and apologetic. Everything is quiet, still, and unnerving.

Although Rwanda has gone through a major recovery process in recent years, the feeling that this country and its people are still struggling to cope with its past is palpable.

Exactly 20 years ago (to the day), this city was the scene of one of the largest genocides in recorded history. The background leading up to this event is quite fascinating--and greatly disturbing. Germany and Belgium colonized Rwanda in the 1800s, and eventually implemented a policy to divide the native residents by socioeconomic classes--even going as far as forcing residents to carry ID cards with their stated class. Tensions grew between two particular groups: the more well to do Hutus, and the lower class Tutsis. After decades of assassinations and political strife, a plot to destroy all Tutsis, along with Tutsi sympathizers, began in April 1994.

Armed with clubs and machetes, Hutus tortured, raped, and murdered 1.2 million Tutsis during a period of 100 days. Just think about that: 1.2 million people were killed in 100 days. How is that even possible?

No one was spared. Brothers killed their sisters--priests betrayed their entire congregations--babies were drowned in wells. The Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre explains in graphic detail how a country can be torn apart by hatred, fear, and the basic principles of dividing and conquering a people.

Kigali's transformation over the past twenty years has been incredible. The city today is flourishing, with a thriving economy, vibrant cultural scene, and an expensive price tag for tourists. It has the hallmarks of very few East African cities--being clean, quiet, and orderly.

Rwanda left me with a strange sense of peace amidst the chaos of Africa--but also a deep sadness. I now return to the chaos of Uganda, where the streets are loud, abrasive, and very much alive.

Note: none of the following pictures are mine.